the Secret to a Great Cheesecake

Anyone can make a cheesecake if they just follow a recipe. Why, then, do some come out different (better) than others? Is it a super-secret recipe that makes the difference, or is it more?

Todd requested a cheesecake for his birthday this past Friday and I was surprised that I hadn’t shared my secrets for perfect cheesecake on the blog, yet. You might think it’s the recipe, but there’s nothing secret about it.

Basic Cheesecake

2 lb cream cheese
.5 c heavy cream
1.5 c sugar
4 eggs, lightly beaten
1 Tbsp vanilla

See? Pretty simple stuff.

So, if it’s not the recipe, what is it?

The 3 Commandments of Cheesecake

It all comes down to HOW you make the cheesecake. The rest is just details.

Thou shalt whip the cream cheese smooth before adding any other ingredients.

A stand mixer makes this easy because you can crank it up and let it run without tiring your arms. If you’re short of time or in a very cold kitchen, microwaving the cream cheese for 30 seconds at a time until it becomes more pliable will not harm the finished cake. Just make sure it doesn’t start to dry out.

Thou shalt never turn the mixer past low when adding other ingredients.

When the cream cheese is smooth, your beating days are through. Notice that every other ingredient is smooth in it’s own way? All you have to do is gently incorporate them, not beat them into submission.

Thou shalt never scrape the bowl.

Once that first ingredient is added there is absolutely no way to beat any future lumps out of the mixture. If you were to scrape down the sides of the bowl mid-recipe you’d be adding clumps, ruining the texture of your cheesecake. The mixture that touches the sides cools off, congeals, clumps. You do not want this in your cheesecake.

Even when you go to pour the batter into the prepared pan, do not scrape the sides of the bowl. Just let what is loose flow in and leave the rest. Don’t worry, it won’t go to waste. Grab a spoon and nosh on the batter on the sides. After all, it’s gonna be the next day before you get to eat the cheesecake, might as well get something out of it now!

The Water Bath

There’s ongoing debate on whether a water bath is truly necessary for a good cheesecake. I’ve done it both with and without and it depends more on your oven than anything else. If you know you have an uneven oven (it happens to the best of us), use a water bath and make sure to keep an eye on the water level. The cheesecake takes about 2 hours to bake (at 325F) and the water level will drop over that time. Theoretically a water bath will prevent the top crust from cracking, but it’s not 100% fool-proof and it’s not something I worry about as much as I worry about the right texture overall.

Finishing Touches

Remember when I said the rest was just details? Well, they can be pretty yummy details.

I seldom use a graham cracker crust. Instead, I prefer crushed cookies that better compliment the flavor of the cake. Our favorite variety uses crushed Oreos as a base, whole cookies ringing the sides (takes about 13 to circle my springform pan, which makes serving size easy to figure) and a few more crumbled ones stirred into the batter. I’ve used lemon cookies to go with blueberry cheesecakes and chocolate wafer cookies as the crust for my dark chocolate cherry varieties. I’ve even made a baklava cheesecake with the nut-and-phyllo layered base and a honey-syrup added to the batter.

Cheesecake is a treat. The basic ingredients are simple, the wait while it bakes and cools is considerable (including the overnight chill), the results should be absolutely sinful. Don’t let any lumps come between you and your indulgence!00





3 responses to “the Secret to a Great Cheesecake”

  1. Batdan Avatar

    I see you have a lot of instructions for preparing the cheesecake, but I have a few questions about baking it. Do you use parchment paper on the bottom and the sides of the pan when you make your cheesecake? When the cheesecake is done, how long should it rest before putting it in the fridge? And finally, do you release the spring form pan before it chills or after?

  2. Scraps Avatar

    All excellent questions!

    I do wrap the bottom of the springform pan in foil before filling but it’s a habit from using older (worn) pans and needing to sometimes do a quick-change when making cheesecakes in quantity (I once made 8 cheesecakes over 2 nights for an event and had only 2 pans!). The cookie crust (just gently patted in, no butter needed) provides enough of a barrier so I don’t have to use parchment but you can if you’d like to or are skipping the crust. Around the sides you can make a parchment collar or just dust it with some crumbs.

    Let it rest on the counter as long as possible. Sometimes you’ve got several hours to let it cool before leaving the house or going to bed, sometimes only one. Because of the very soft nature of this cheesecake (really, if it gets/stays too warm its more like a semi-set pudding) I err on the side of rushing it into the fridge rather than prolonging it’s counter time.

    Release the springform only once it’s been chilled–you need that stability while it finishes setting up. Run a thin (angled if you’ve got it) spatula between the sides of the cheesecake and the inside of the springform pan before releasing the hinge to avoid tearing your cake apart in the unmolding. Letting it sit on the counter for about 20 minutes before you release it will also make it easier.